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WDKA Fashion Show 2013

A downright industrial setting seems the preferred stage for Willem de Kooning Academy graduates to show their first collections. Design.nl visited the RDW-Campus in Rotterdam. 

By Cassandra Pizzey / 13-06-2013

We didn’t count a single male designer during the final defilé of the Willem de Kooning Academy Fashion Show – 21 graduates – even so, the menswear collections were the ones which impressed the most. A number of trends could be found amongst the graduates including street wear, 1990s grunge and and plastic coatings. 

With a collection named Rebel on Pause, Evana Kuik sent her tattooed and pierced models down the catwalk wearing coated tailored trousers, overcoats, knits and combinations of tailoring and a puffer jacket. A commercial collection that could easily be picked up and worn as a street wear meets smart wear, indeed these combinations are a great way to take office wear out of its comfort zone without turning it into a cliché.Bags were spotted as a cool new accessory, a new take on the bum bag saw waits bags worn at the front, in leather or matching the materials of jackets. 
Great with prints and subtle details is Marion Visser whose collection named ‘It don’t mean a thing if it aint got that swing.’ featured geometric prints and patterned trousers combined with a colour palette of mustard, burnt orange and dark blue. Combining multiple different patterns and details of black PVC, the collection didn’t seem to loud thanks to subdued tones. Knitted vests with intricate rope detailing and slits for a tie to be fed through, added to the fun-factor of this collection yet also showed Visser’s love for knitwear.
Made from what seemed like thousands of petals, Maartje van Hooij presented a A New Bow-Tie, a collection that drifted on the verge of an art collection. Her male models were dressed simply in black trousers and cummerbund yet wore or carried elaborate hats, bags, and finally even a human form covered in yellow fringing. 
Eveline Nederveen’s menswear collection named New Printed Generation featured straight tailoring carried out in unusual materials. We saw leather, what looked like rubber shirts, knits combined with plastic coating and a pinstriped suit which on closer inspection appeared worn in places. It was the small details that really stood out in this collection; relaxed tailoring paired with a keen eye for detail and clean finishing makes for an aesthetically pleasing collection. The overall laid-back styling with New Balance sneakers and nonchalant hair added this.
When Katrien Baaij’s models started down the catwalk, the first thing that came to mind was 1950s boys dressed up in their daddy’s clothes. High-waisted shorts with dinosaur print combined with socks and sandals, oversized coats and even a playsuit evoked a sense of nostalgia while offering a fresh look at men’s fashion. Shorts and waistcoats combined with rolled up sleeves reminded more of stylish skinheads, indeed Dinky Boys is a fitting name for the collection.
Coming down the catwalk we also saw urban nomads courtesy of Mirte van Wijngaarden, desert warriors by Kelly Carels, Pantone’s prediction of green hues by Taina Maraschini and complex minimalism by Mariska Vijverberg. 
To say that this graduation show was groundbreaking would be a bit of an overstatement but with cultivation and the right mentoring, these young talents will certainly find their way into the world of fashion. 

Main image: WDKA poster
Other images: 1-2 Evana Kuik 3-4 Marion Visser 5-6 Maartje van Hooij 7-8 Eveline Nederveen 9 Katrien Baaij 10 Katrien Baaij image Peter Stigter

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