By Katie Dominy /asdf 10-03-2009

The timeless beauty of the classical statue inspires Viktor & Rolf for their new autumn/winter 2009/10 catwalk collection in Paris.

In an old warehouse in the 13th arrondissement of Paris against a backdrop of classical statues set on tall columns, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren showcased a wardrobe of discreet elegance for next winter.

The unchanging and timeless quality of the statue forms the story behind this collection. Statues are brought to life and the stonemason’s craft of recreating fabric in stone is reversed – fabrics are designed and cut to appear as if chiselled from marble. The folds and pleats of classical drapery are reinterpreted into trompe l’oeil folds and seams or reworked into the three dimensional shapes of structured concertina folds or fluid jersey drapes.

The models’ faces were plaster white, as if powdered with marble dust. Colours of the collection reference the cosmetic tones of antique stone and terracotta from pastel faded pinks, soft greys and chalk white through to rich browns, bronzes and dark graphite. White flocking is used to partially cover a garment; as if it had been suddenly petrified to stone.

The models strode along the podium in 3D coats and skirts that resembled unfurling complex geometric forms, revealing overlapping facets and folds. These structured fabrics included coated technical wool felt and suiting in wool/cashmere felt. The glittering flecks that appear in stone are reinterpreted into a silk Lurex jacquard with flocked polka dot and a striped metallic Lurex in tonal shades of bronzes and greys.

A series of dresses and tops were formed from a patchwork of ultra-sheer black laces in different designs, accented with crystals. The hems of the dresses were jauntily festooned with swags of white sheer drapes that swung to the rhythm of the models’ steps.

The footwear focused on knee-high loose-fit boots designed in aged leather in black or brown. Antiquity came through in the form of gladiator-style sandal boots or pumps with bronze or black leather cording, while black patent leather stack-heel boots are given an oversized sequinned top, which can be worn slouched down to ankle or to the knee. Jewellery appeared as chunky chains with cameos for choker necklaces, bracelets and belts. These were often flocked in white giving a slightly ghostly effect.

Photography: Peter Stigter

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