"Titties are the new accessory"

Fashion design

Like Project Runway in New York, excitement runs high in anticipation of what the top students will put down the runway during Amsterdam International Fashion Week. They didn't disappoint.

By Gabrielle Kennedy /asdf 05-02-2009

Two Student collections, Arnhem Collectie and Individuals, hit the runway during Amsterdam International Fashion Week to show capacity-crowds what the next generation has to offer. Designed, sampled, styled and presented by students, both schools reinforced assumptions that young people want to undress rather than dress

Graceland, the 11th edition of the Arnhem Collectie, was produced by third year students of ArtEZ. Always praised for its artistry, individual pieces from past collections have been picked up by cult boutiques like Colette in Paris and Coming Soon in Arnhem.

This year there were angular silhouettes, high-cut boxy briefs and bare midriffs. Refreshing and packed with potential, it was the experimental pieces like a prim and proper top and bottom outfit hacked to reveal a hint of skin that were more effective than the high contrast, two-toned body suits that felt more court jester than fashion.

There were also some very on-trend denim separates that used zippers for effect, and a gorgeous long-sleeved leather tunic in a neutral yellow.

More cohesive and commercially viable, the Holy Bleach collection presented by Individuals was inspired by the roaring 20s and communicated a similar desire and celebration of nakedness.

This collection, sold through the Individuals boutique in Amsterdam, was an edgy and seductive collection that incorporated velvet, wool and fur with an ample supply of horse-hair trimming.

Contrasting the very and modest silhouettes of the 1920s, were floor-length coats, and a captivating cape that was long at the back and tapered up to hip length at the front.

“Titties are the new accessories,” said Bastiaan van Schaik, fashion director of Avantgarde after the slew of exposed breasts both collections and others throughout the week put down the runway. Nipples and silk, nipples and horse hair, nipples and velvet - the female form was both muse and star of the 2009 Amsterdam International Fashion Week.

Images: top page Individuals, main picture Individuals, top two from Arhem Collectie, bottom two Individuals. All by Peter Stigter.