By Jeanne Tan /asdf 14-07-2010

The concept of the collection entitled 'Reflection' tells of mirroring and reflection, "'old' couture reflected in contemporary couture and the magical moment where you discover yourself looking at your reflection in a mirror and being conscious of being: The elusiveness of reality," explains Jan Taminiau.

"The latest show is a reflection on the old couture values with a nowadays twist. The Old couture is visible in the shoulders (a reflection to the old fashioned couture poses), the silhouette (40s inspired), the hats (old movie references), decor (Vionnet photography with mirrors in the back and front) but all with a modern twist," he continues.

Predominant colours used in the collection are different shades of nude, liver and pale grey. The materials used are crêpes, chiffon, sequins, hand-woven degrade fabrics, Swarovski crystals and metal knit work. (Transparent) crystals play an important role in the clothes, used frequently under a layer of sheer fabric such as chiffon. That way, the material sparkles in a subtle way, adding to a mystical effect.

We see slender cuts, stretched, v-shaped silhouettes and plunging necklines, the centre of gravity being the top half, portraying an ultra feminine image. Hemlines went from ultra short - both on its own and with an open train - to long, flowing and billowing. Defined shoulders feature strongly and armour-like structured bodices - often heavily sequined or metal knitted - contrast with lighter elements like flowing or feathered skirts and chiffon jackets.

And how does Taminiau see him self at the crossroads of new and old couture? "I believe in couture, it is a laboratory for experiments, new forms and true craftsmanship. This will not change. Couture is still about these values. It's about making the most explicitly beautiful tailor-made pieces."


Photography: Peter Stigter

Add to favorites