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Shoe designer Marloes ten Bhömer investigates the concept of the assembly line in her latest design named Pressedleathershoe.

By Cassandra Pizzey / 15-09-2011

Non-conformist designer Marloes ten Bhömer has created a pair of shoes moulded from leather. 

Pressedleathershoe is made using a technique in which leather is soaked in water and pressed between a two-part mould, forming it into a three-dimensional shape.The leather parts are then dried, cut and assembled into one shoe, embedding the structure that gives the shoe it’s strength. Blackpressedleathershoe is made from three preformed leather parts.

"My work consistently aims to challenge generic typologies of women’s shoes through experiments with non-traditional technologies and material techniques," Ten Bhömer says. "By reinventing the process by which footwear is made, the resulting shoes serve as unique examples of new aesthetic and structural possibilities. They allow women the incredibly rare chance of freedom from conventional style clichés and codes, (such as girly, sporty, glamorous etc.), because they do not conform to the existing codes."

Ten Bhömer uses many existing - albeit somewhat unusual for footwear -techniques in her work such as CNC milling and rapid prototyping alongside the high-tech materials carbon fibre and glass fibre.

"A technique that I invented myself is a leather laminating, leather-mâché technique. It was specifically invented to create a shoe without any pattern developing time and varied wall thicknesses. This allows for a shoe to be made that traces the form of the foot exactly on the inside, allowing the external silhouette to differ from the convention of the foot," explains the designer.

Designed with the investigations into manufacturing and structural potentials of shoes and their resulting aesthetics in mind, the shoes seem to veer away from the established

With her work on show in three different exhibitions simultaneously, asked the designer what that means to her?

"The work is exhibited continuously which is great, but what I like most is that the work is exhibited in different contexts ranging from, footwear, fashion, design, commerce, gallery, technology to design and innovation."

Comissioned by Formula Fashion the shoes are on show alongside other new commissioned works inspired by a fusion of motorsport, art, leatherwork and cutting edge design. Other exhibitors: Kei Ito, Aasen Stephenson, Genevieve Bennett and Jo Cope.

Main image: Blackleatherpressedshoe
Other images: 1.-6. process images 7. Pressedleathershoe

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