By Jeanne Tan / 11-06-2009

The third edition of the Arnhem Mode Biënnale was officially opened by Her Royal Highness Princess Máxima. The white ceremonial ribbon was cut very fittingly by Princess Máxima - wearing a Jan Taminiau creation - with a pair of vintage fabric scissors. The month-long festival will be held from 6 June until 6 July 2009 in various locations throughout the city of Arnhem.

SHAPE, the theme for this third edition, is a celebration of fashion in its three dimensional glory. The programme comprises a major exhibition, satellite exhibtions, lectures, catwalks, tours, workshops and a symposium. Over 80 fashion labels, international and Dutch, are featured in the event.

The major exhibition is a stunning presentation of the concepts surrounding shape. The theme was divided into three chapters - Tradition, Amazement and Concept, each broken down into their own sub-themes including Geometry, Viewing, Construction and Proportion. The exhibition is presented mostly inside a series of custom-designed pavillions - both elevated along a purpose built walkway and freestanding - each containing a sub-theme or designer's work. Beginning at the City Hall, the exhibition culminates in an large presentation inside the Eusebius Church. The custom-designed flatpack pavillions, created by Flat Architects, are made from interconnecting plywood pieces, and can be easily dismantled to be reused. Highlights were stepping into the black & white warped pentagon-based grid of an Amazement pavillion featuring the 'soccer ball' geometry-inspired pieces from Comme de Garçon's Spring 2009 collection. The outfits were accompanied by the Marie-Antoinette style wigs seen on the original catwalk. Piet Paris, the biennale's Artistic Director explained that very 'real life' mannequins, complete with real hair, eyelashes, almost life-like skin and freckles, are intended to accentuate the idea of three-dimensionality even further. One of Viktor & Rolf's Swarovski crystal-clad mini dresses from their Spring Summer 09 collection was reinterpreted into a hologram presentation illustrating Concept while a festive tailored tinsel jacket from Martin Margiela had the company of a christmas tree.

Upon arrival at the church, several smaller pavillions located out the front contained presentations from designers such as Monique van Heist, G-Star and Antoine Peters who created a stunning evening gown that used lines to accentuate the shape. Peters also designed the volunteer's uniforms, which were unisex tops printed with continuous lines based on the SHAPE logo, which can be worn reversed back to front or inside out as a way to flip the colour.

But the undoubted star of the exhibition was the stunning presentation inside the church. The pavillions continued inside the impressing setting of the remodelled church, forming a kind of village. Here, the pieces were mostly commissioned especially for the biennale with the focus on emerging designers. Amongst those featured were emerging Dutch labels, many of whom have been receiving much international acclaim as of late. "I always look for originality", Paris comments. "They're designers who are really trying to push the boundaries, and not necessarily loud in their look." Mark his works, these designers are definitely ones to watch out for. They included Mattijs van Bergen, Iris van Herpen, G+N, Painted Series, Marcha Hüskes and Spijkers & Spijkers. Impressing the public with the sheer (pun intended) intensity, the illuminated/dark presentation of Klavers van Engelen was a highlight. Using transparency to express shape, the duo played with folds and movement in garments made of brightly coloured sheer material. Also presented were Orson+Bodil and Lucas Ossendrijver for Lanvin Homme.

Over the next few weeks, we'll be covering more events during the biennale including the ArtEZ graduation shows, satellite exhibitions and the Premsela/HTNK Symposium on 'Re-shaping Attitudes' in fashion.

Main image: Klavers van Engelen
Image: Piet Paris and Princess Máxima
Image: Spijkers en Spijkers
Image: Comme de Garçon
Image: Piet Paris and Princess Máxima at Marcha Hüskes
Image: Mattijs van Bergen
Photography: Mirjam Boekholt

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