By Katie Dominy / 15-02-2010

London-based Dutch fashion designer Martyn Bal explains his current collection that takes its influences from the singer Erik Hassle whose work is now starting to be recognized more widely outside his home in Sweden. 

Bal became aware of the Swedish artist while flicking through a copy of the UK music magazine NME a year or so ago. “Erik has a real duality that I love,” says Bal. “He has the steely, tattooed veneer of an East London boy, but underneath, as you’ll hear on record, is an emotional soul.”

This collaboration has evolved into the Spring 2010 menswear collection that sees relaxed masculinity with a gentle side, as Bal comments. “Fluidity, play on proportion, light fabrics, soft yet constructed outerwear and tailoring. It’s about showing the cut, proportions, the materials in a pure way.” Supple belted leather jackets, a lightweight trench and brushed cotton shirts feature Bal’s eye for detail, inspired partly by 80s rebel movies.

He continues, “I don’t have a set design process, and I never restrict my creativity to just one theme. However, I intend to have a graphic and constructivists approach to my design, but always want to inject enough energy through movement and fluidity to give it the softness and emotion it needs for it to become pure, poetic and believable.”

Martyn Bal graduated from the Royal College of Art (RCA) and has worked with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme from 2000 to 2003, designed collections for Versace, and served as director of the menswear studio for Burberry Prorsum. Before moving to London and the RCA, Bal explains how he started:  “I studied at the MTS for Mode & Kleding in The Hague. It was purely a technical school for the industry of fashion and textiles. Here I learned all about tailoring, fashion business management and also the production side of things. I don’t think it exists anymore, which is unfortunate. I had the privilege to be taught exceptional tailoring skills by fifth generation craftsmen.”

Bal also worked with Dirk Bikkembergs early on in his career, who gave him some sound advice. “My first encounter with Dirk Bikkembergs was in 1994, and I was rather young and inexperienced. Dirk was, at that time, by many considered one of the most creative and cutting edge menswear designers around. He had a very clear approach to menswear design, using sports and military images as a source of inspiration. However, ultimately his work was steeped with a profound sense of tailoring that was challenging. Dirk told me one day, you can only be a great menswear designer if you have a strong foundation and knowledge of tailoring.”

The spring/summer collection photographs of Erik Hassle are taken at Knebworth House, a country house north of London with a history of live rock festivals from the 70s onwards, with bands such as The Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin.

Last image: portrait Martyn Bal

Add to favorites