By Katie Dominy / 24-09-2009

Radiation Invasion and Florish Odalisk

Iris van Herpen chose to show her new Spring/Summer 2010 collection in London this season, alongside three other upcoming designers, in a catwalk event called Blow Presents….,created by Blow PR. Set in London’s Royal Festival Hall, the open-plan location allowed interested onlookers to take a look as well – away from the conventional exclusive atmosphere of so many runways.

Entitled Radiation Invasion, Iris van Herpen’s new collection is inspired by the invisible radiation waves by which we are all surrounded. “I think that in the future people will find ways to be able to see radiation which will develop a new dimension apart from the body. Imagine we could attract and reject radiation waves like a magnet. Being beautiful will then get a totally new and more extended form”, comments van Herpen.

Eindhoven-based Dutch conceptual designer Bart Hess has worked with Van Herpen to create the eleven show pieces that clearly show the vast amount of handwork involved to produce the dramatic effect of flowing, body-conscious silhouettes in black, nude or gold leather.

The glossy-skinned models, with slicked hair and their faces softly stencilled with black geometric shapes walked on tip-toe, as if in heels – some barefoot, other wearing bronze leather thong sandals (with no sole) – mere foot decorations. Swirling waves created strong 3D patterns using ribbons of leather, in some styles, gold glinted between the leather ribbons. In some cases, solid rings cause the ribbons to fan out in unexpected ways. ECCO leather was used.

Mattijs, the label created by Mattijs van Bergen, showed as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, catwalk stagers for upcoming designers at London Fashion Week. Located at the highly ornate Freemasons’ Hall in Covent Garden, the Mattijs catwalk collection is called 'Florish Odalisk – a woman in bloom captured by her beauty’.

Mattijs celebrates dressing up in all its glory and is inspired by the warmth and colours of summer. ‘The positive playfulness of structured flowers’ is noted as a theme, and this came across in the use of pleated silks in soft tones of reds, pinks and pistachio green, highlighted with flashes of cobalt blue, royal purple and iridescent sheer fabrics in bright colourful stripes.

Silk habutai and organdy is layered for high-summer shimmer on blouse tops with pleated neck detailing or for simple tunic dresses. Floor-sweeping maxi-dresses in tiered silks looked effortlessly cool. Organdy shot with Lurex was used for jackets, tulip skirts and tops, while a metallic gunmetal grey pleated trenchcoat provided protection should a drop of rain fall in Mattijs’ sun-drenched summer scenario.

Van Bergen also showed the collection during Prelude at Amsterdam International Fashion Week this summer.

Also presenting in London was Michael van der Ham.

Photography Iris van Herpen: Michel Zoeter
Photography Mattijs: David Coleman

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