By Katie Dominy / 11-02-2010

Over four years at the helm of the menswear arm of one of fashion’s most successful and applauded labels Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver knows how to create that elusive mix of high fashion and relaxed dressing that distinguishes true menswear from catwalk showmanship.

The catwalk show took place at the Palais de Tokyo, one of the stalwarts of any Paris fashion week. In tandem with Alber Elbaz, Lanvin’s creative director responsible for womenswear, Ossendrijver’s collections are all about luxurious fabrics, but ones that are often given subtle washed treatments to create a slight ‘lived-in’ aesthetic. Shapes are dressed up – but relaxed at the same time, to create garments that have lost their starchy newness.  

As with the womenswear, colour has been carefully considered. Next winter sees subtle blends of muted tones and neutrals, with warm accents of ginger and violet reminiscent of classic winter Fair Isles, plus tiny sparks of brights in the silk tartan patchwork hand-embroidered bowties, scarves and patches added to the sides of grey vegetable-tanned boots.  

A reworked military influence came through in the textile-effect camouflage printed onto cotton for jackets and trousers, accessorized with matching cotton rucksacks or chunky hand-knitted man bags that suggested world traveler. Knitwear came in the shape of alpaca and merino wool oversized tops in green and taupe camouflage effects.  

Military-style trousers with multiple pockets are reinvented in slim-fit anthracite grey nylon, which is also used for long zipped coats. Hip-hugging corsetry-style belts in chestnut vegetable tanned leather are worn with fingerless leather gloves.   

Soft slouchy knitwear in tonal greys appeared in the form of wool blend long cardigans, worn over washed loungewear jersey pieces in wool/viscose. The classic Fair Isle jumper is transformed into tight-fit cropped knits and tank tops with fringed detail bristling along the seams. Knitwear mixes with tailoring for cotton/linen jacket and trousers with sleeves and jacket back in tonal dense knit, accessorized with knitted ties.

Ossendrijver has always emphasized that for him, he wants people to wear the clothes he has designed. The press may prefer more extreme looks for editorial, but finally, it is the client who buys the collection and he sees the job of a designer to give the client clothes they like and enjoy wearing. 

Images: courtesy Lanvin

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