'La Petite Femme' by Claes Iversen

Fashion design

As with the previous collections of Claes Iversen, personal experiences play a central role in the inspiration: this time, it's about the growth, processes and challenges of becoming an adult.

By Jeanne Tan /asdf 01-02-2010

For his Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 collection, Dutch-based Danish designer Claes Iversen fell under the spell of an anonymous model in a retro advertisement.

She carries a youthful energy and innocence from her adolescence, and a girlish fragility, however she's heading into the future of becoming a woman and an adult. Iversen's autobiographical approach to his collections see this time, his transformation into a mature fashion designer taking place while still holding onto the carefree and more playful ways of younger days.

In the words of the designer, "The central theme for my Autumn/Winter collection 2010 is adolescence. During this period in your life a lot of things are in development causing a great deal of insecurities. You find yourself balancing between your carefree childhood and the structured, liable life of an adult. This is where I find myself in my professional career as well right now, balancing between life as a creative fashion designer and running a business."

This season is about hard lines combined with soft romantic elements, a sense of openness contrasted with structure, with an overall 60's feeling. A sophisticated palette of colours including bordeaux, coral and apricot is mixed with nudes, gold, marine and grey. Check fabrics feature strongly as do vintage details and as can be expected from an Iversen collection, an incredible amount of hand-work, especially embroidery. Tailored dresses were a favourite: there were knee-length tailored shift dresses and jacket dresses, some finished with a contrasting flirty organza skirt, flowing velour evening dresses, ruffled organza mini dresses and a gorgeous layered coral organza mini dress paired with a maroon wool jacket detailed with the same ruffled lining. And what would a classic collection be without a bride to finish: with her face covered and cocooned in a strong silhouetted, embroidered dress with fitted long sleeve bodice and puffed skirt, adorned with square paillettes, the bride resembles a chrysalis, waiting out the final stages of her transformation.

Photography: Peter Stigter