Claes Iversen puts fresh perspective on being tied down

Fashion design

The thought on every woman's mind after the showing of Claes Iversen's exquisite A/W 2009-10 Collection 'Control': How do I get my hands on that??

By Jeanne Tan / 29-01-2009

Claes Iversen Autumn-Winter 2009-2010 collection, 'Control'.

The official catwalks of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week began with a bang with the showing of Claes Iversen's Autumn-Winter 2009-2010 collection, 'Control'. The collection mixed couture with a range of ready to wear pieces, created with Iversen's touch of artisan techniques and classic elements.

'Control' is a response to the restrictions faced by the Danish-born Dutch-based designer after his Spring-Summer 2009 collection 'Substantial Stain' where the start-up of production for an emerging designer was a big hurdle to overcome. The sense of confinement felt during this process became the inspiration for this follow-up collection which immediately appears dark but is embedded with shimmering details.

The feeling of 'being held back' is expressed mainly through ropes that form the basis of the pieces to shape and drape dresses, tops and bottoms around the body. This is complemented by prints that illustrate the concept, for instance a bird tied down so it can’t fly, roses kept from blooming by the same ropes or a tangle of cables, and volumes that are seemingly restricted. The highly tailored nature of the pieces emphasised the feeling of tightness contrasted by long flowing fabrics which moved freely.

The palette comprised black, grey, purple contrasted with skin tones. Highlights included the dresses - extra-fitted minis or long, flowing gowns - held together or bound at the waist and neck with black rope knotted with nautical precision. Voluptuous down-filled volumes were tailored to fit/constrict, particularly striking in the sleeveless dress, short jacket and skirt where the stitching resembled fine wire wound around the body. Oversized crystal beads reflected the light to contrast with the seeming darkness of the collection, especially wound around the upper body and mass of fabric in the spectacular finale dress.

Judging from the roaring applause and standing ovation from the packed audience, it was a pretty good indication that this new collection may have a different outcome to its predecessor and have the potential to fly off the racks in no time.

Photography main image and image 1: Rachel Perry
Photography catwalk: Peter Stigter